The end is still ways off, but I want to record the highlights and recommendations of my short time living in Ljubljana so far. I moved here in February this year.
I nominate Ljubljana as one of Europe’s hidden gem cities. It’s beautiful, particularly the centre. I love the gracefully aged faces of buildings, antiquated, but still alive; the street lighting at night, walking along the river Ljubljanica, and how willows weep over the river walls. Cafes add outdoor seating which hugs riverside footpaths and fill with life when the weather is good.
For Lidiya and myself, the most anticipated event of the week has been a visit to the capital market on Saturdays. It hosts a section dedicated to organic products, many of which are locally produced; a fish market, with a mix of wild and farmed fish; a massive fruit and veg market; souvenir stalls; as well merchants of nuts, dried fruit, grains, seeds, dairy and even organic meat, for those inclined.
Even on damp days the market is bustling. Buskers are dotted around the centre and add to the atmosphere as you peruse the wears on offer, while enjoying a veggie pie, made freshly in front of your eyes, from buckwheat flour in wood fire stove.
Local and Organic = Happy and Healthy
There are several milk vending machines around the city, the first place I’ve seen or heard of. You insert coins, receive a bottle and fill it as desired with raw, unpasturised, unhomogenised milk. The milk is delivered daily from Slovenian and Italian producers. I don’t drink milk, but appreciate having it available it’s raw form. It’s illegal so sell in many parts of the States, I’m not sure what the law is in Ireland, but I’ve never come across it in stores. The health benefits of raw dairy products are discussed here.
Even in the local supermarket chain Mercator, they have their own, reasonably priced, organic range. It’s a joy to live somewhere where local, organic produce is valued.
Equally valued is the environment. From what I’ve seen and heard of their nature, it is immaculately preserved. A friend, and fishing-lover, told me that the rivers there are home to the best fishing in Europe. Fishing licenses are quite expensive in monetary terms, ranging from €20-€80 per day, but good value in environmental terms, if that is the cost for taking care of the waterways and it’s inhabitants.
Places to visit
This is a very short list, as I haven’t done much moving around yet.
- Lake Bled, is as beautiful as it’s reputation would lead you to believe.
- Lake Bohinj is near Bled and home to Slovenia’s first eco hotel, Eco Hotel Bohinj
- Shmarna gora is a hill, about a 30 minute local bus journey from Ljubljana. The 25 minute climb to the top offers great views of the city.
- Metalkova, a very interest place; an autonomous social centre in Ljubljana. Similar to Copenhagen’s Christiania.
Climbing gear is really well priced. I’ve picked up new equipment from Iglu, which have a few stores in Ljubljana. You get a 10% discount there is you are a member of Stena climbing club. Stena has a really nice, and challenging, boulder wall. The average climber there is really good. (I was mezmorised recently by an amazing climber doing a full dyno on a 45 degree overhang to a pinch, a hold I would struggle with on a vertical wall). I’m consistently the weakest person at the wall, which I mean in a matter-of-fact, rather than self-defeatist way. It has put a lot of positive pressure on me to improve.
The weather has just picked up, and soon we’ll make our first outdoor climbing trip.
I started learning the language too. Slovenian study courses, and even in person classes, are in short supply. I met Valentina, who studies in Ljubljana, through MyLanguageExchange.com, a fairly suspect looking website (the design looks a little late 90’s) for finding language exchange partners. She has been teaching me twice a week.
After a few lessons, we had both mentioned how surprising it was that there is hardly anything available online to learn Slovenian. So we decided to do something about it and will shortly be releasing the online self-study course, Learn Slovenian Online. Our aim is to create, not only the first online Slovene language program, but to craft it into the best resource for learning Slovenian on the web. To hit that target we will regularly gather learner feedback to update and improve the course.
If you are interested in learning the language and would like an early invitation to try out the course, in turn for sending some feedback, let us know: firstname.lastname@example.org.